Emily Körner - Hochschule Pforzheim

unANGEMESSEN – Hochschule Pforzheim

The starting point of unAPPROPRIATE is a seemingly mundane moment: a stain on a garment. What begins as an everyday accident quickly becomes a trigger for judgment in public space. Clothing functions not only as protection or a means of self-expression, but also as a carrier of societal notions of order, cleanliness, and appropriateness. The collection examines these often invisible norms and renders them visible through exaggeration. Rather than aestheticizing flaws or stains, existing concepts of purity and appropriateness are translated into radically amplified forms. The resulting nine focus pieces draw on common responses to the inappropriate: exposing imperfections, attempting to correct them, and ultimately creating preventative measures against any potential disruption. Stains become structures, protective mechanisms evolve into oversized design features, and functional details transform into symbols of continuous regulation. The garments deliberately oscillate between the familiar and the absurd. Through the strategy of over-identification, societal expectations are not challenged directly but fulfilled to such an extreme degree that their contradictions become visible. The work understands appropriateness not as a neutral condition, but as a socially constructed ideal closely linked to resources, social belonging, and cultural capital. The fixation on flawlessness shapes not only how people are perceived, but also how clothing itself is valued. Signs of wear, ageing, and alteration are often treated as defects, even though they tell stories of use, time, and personal connection. inAPPROPRIATE questions these assumptions and advocates for a more open relationship with mistakes, traces, and imperfection. The collection is an invitation to renegotiate the boundaries of what is considered appropriate and to view clothing not as an object of permanent perfection, but as a living companion to human experience.

I am Emily “Emmy” Körner, a recently graduated designer. During my studies, I gained experience at Vetements as well as in show direction and production for the emerging label KITSCHY COUTURE. A semester abroad in Japan also profoundly shaped my perspective on materiality, craftsmanship, and the use of resources. The appreciation for materials and processes I experienced there continues to influence my approach to design and sustainability to this day. Together, these experiences have formed my understanding of fashion as an interplay of design, staging, and social context. At the core of my work is the question of how clothing creates meaning, visualizes social structures, and challenges normative expectations. I am equally interested in the garment itself as well as its perception, staging, and the contexts in which it is worn. My goal is to provide food for thought through design, to question existing perspectives, and to open up spaces for new viewpoints and developments.

Fotograf: Paco Kolax